enlarge Gordon Chibroski/Staff Photographer

Norm’s East End Grille on Middle Street in Portland is known for its barbecue, like the bodacious BBQ Sampler, but it also offers old-school ambience created by local clientele, and bartenders like Sage Marble, here putting together a Cosmo.

NORM'S EAST END GRILLE

WHERE: 47 Middle St., Portland. 253-1700

HOURS: The restaurant opens at 11 a.m., but the bar opens for Happy Hour at 4 p.m. Food is served until 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, with the bar closing around 10:30 p.m.

BEERS ON TAP: Geary's Pale Ale, Shipyard Export, Shipyard Pumpkinhead, Allagash White, Stella Artois and Guinness

SPECIALS: One of the best happy hours in town Monday through Friday with free barbecue chicken wings, $2.50 microbrew drafts and $3.50 well drinks.

CLIENTELE: As Norm put it, "We're just a neighborhood bar, nothing more, nothing less." There's a huge local contingent, but also a steady influx of curious newcomers.

FOOD: Fantastic full menu with soup specials, five-star fried chicken and, of course, that barbecue sauce on chicken, slow-cooked ribs or steak.

GAMES/AMENITIES: Music choices made by a human being, and a subtle flatscreen to keep you connected to the outside world. Great ambience.

PAYMENT: Cash or credit card

DRINK SPECIALS

MJ'S GRILLE & TAVERN, 94 Maine St., Brunswick; 729-6574 Thursdays: $5 select martinis from 4 to 9 p.m.

THATCHER'S RESTAURANT & SPORTS PUB, 35 Foden Road, South Portland; 253-1808 Thursdays: $2.50 Miller Lite from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

TOP OF THE EAST LOUNGE, Eastland Park Hotel, 157 High St., Portland; 775-5411 Fridays: $1 off all wines by the glass or 15 percent off bottles of wine during happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m.

DOGFISH BAR & GRILLE, 128 Free St., Portland; 772-5483 Fridays: $2.50 bottled beers and $5 Doggie Fizzles, 4 to 7 p.m.

RIVALRIES, 10 Cotton St., Portland; 774-6044 Saturdays: $3.25 for 20-ounce Miller Lite drafts from 11:30 a.m. to close.

ASYLUM SPORTS BAR, 121 Center St., Portland; 772-8274 Sundays: $7 domestic pitchers and $5 all-you-can-eat buffet from 1 to 7 p.m.

GILBERT'S CHOWDER HOUSE, 61 Tanberg Trail, Route 35, North Windham; 893-0700 Sundays: $1 off well drinks and half off all appetizers from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

FAJITA GRILL, 857 Main St., Westbrook; 591-8150 Sundays: Any five beers for $10 from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

BUCKS NAKED BBQ STEAKHOUSE & JUKE JOINT, 568 Route 1, Freeport; 865-0600 Sundays: $2.50 Bud Light drafts and half-priced wings during NFL football games.

UNA, 505 Fore St., Portland; 828-0300 Tuesdays: $5 cocktails and $2.50 beer from 4:30 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Send drink special listings to: kbeaudoin@pressherald.com.

Since going to Norm's East End Grille for barbecue is like watching the Sea Dogs play or hopping the ferry to Peaks, it may not be immediately seen as a place to go get your libation on. After all, those massive racks of ribs have a way of overshadowing what's on tap and/or occupying all the space in your stomach.

For this reason, I figure it warrants a closer look. Just who is the supporting cast for the star barbecue? What are the pieces that combine to create Norm's popularity, and can a well-meaning visitor pull off a "couple of drinks" followed by a massive mess of food?

I notice the steep, bright green steps up to the bar area, worn in the center from the love of a lot of hungry feet. I'm a big fan of the upstairs bar anyway – it always feels removed from the rest of the world just enough. The lights are nice and low, but the bar glows neon.

For all of Norm's exuberance on the dinner plates, there's just as much discretion to be noted in the decor. Between two ancient brick walls, there are four framed movie posters ("Trainspotting," "Raging Bull," "The Usual Suspects" and 1968's "Bullitt," with mean Steve McQueen) presented neatly in a line. The tables in the dining area are armed for sauce and stains, proudly wearing their red-and-white checkers and practically screaming, "Eat on me!"

The bar though, is like the really quiet, interesting guy standing behind the loud, drunk, popular guy at a party. You know how some bars are stocked like they're prepping for Prohibition? Norm's has one of each of all the bottles you could want, but not two. The bartenders make feisty creative drinks with their own names, like the East End Margarita ($7), and pour Maine beers out of subtle, central taps at the elbow of the corner bar.

The highlight of the whole scene? The tunes. When I hear a favorite indie song that has no business playing in a restaurant, bartender Chris points to his iPod and says with a grin, "Yup, we're the jukebox. We pick the playlists."

The staff feeds off the personal touch, busy bustling about but whistling and humming all the while. (Sure beats Don Henley wailing on Sirius at Chili's.) As an added counterpoint to the typical head-bangers sports bar, the lone, muted television is tuned to the Discovery Channel. Much respect to the bar that treats its TVs as an ornament rather than a focal point. Isn't the whole point of drinking so that we can interact easier?

Of course, Norm's is Norm's, so after a couple of brews, my buddy and I throw our own discretion to the dogs and courageously go halfsies on the BBQ Sampler ($17.95), a monster of two rib racks, sausage, a half-chicken, steak tips and the trusty palate-cleansing cornbread.

The secret of this place is that barbecue is the best when it comes to late-night munchies and getting a grip. If exercise and a healthy diet add years to your life better than pizza, burgers or nachos, Norm's no-joke applewood smoked meats add drinks to your night.

Mike Olcott is a freelance writer who lives in Portland.