Until recently, I lumped parsnips in the same category as turnips and rutabagas – lower-class cousins to the versatile potato, with an off taste. I've since changed my mind.

These root vegetables all share a slight anise and cabbage flavor that can be very lovely on its own or combined with potatoes, carrots or other root vegetables.

The parsnip has a sweet, caramel-y flavor that is accentuated by roasting, and is one I've come to love. Some vegetables you fall in love with right away; some require a little more time to warm up to – parsnips were that way for me.

You can eat parsnips when they mature in the fall, but unlike carrots, to which they are related, something magical happens to them when they spend a winter or at least two to four weeks in the ground at below-freezing temperatures. The starches transform into sugars, much to our palates' delight.

And somewhat like fiddleheads and, honestly, most other fresh produce, the season for them is fairly short. They don't root-cellar all that well once it begins to warm up, and newly hatched bugs love them when you try to hold them in the ground into the summer.

Parsnips tend to have a woody center which softens just fine when added to soups and stews, but needs to be removed if you are using a dry heat, such as roasting, to cook them.

Like potatoes, they will turn brown when exposed to air, so either use them right away or cover them with water and a tiny bit of lemon juice if you need to hold them over.

ROASTED PARSNIPS WITH PAPRIKA

1 1/2 pounds parsnips

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon paprika

Several grinds of fresh black pepper

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Peel the parsnips and cut into 3-inch-by-1/2-inch or thinner sticks, removing any center woody portions. On a baking sheet with sides, toss the parsnips with olive oil, salt, paprika and pepper. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes, or until the edges begin to brown and the centers are tender.

Serves four to six, depending on how much woodiness needs to be removed.

CREAMY PARSNIP SOUP WITH CHIVES AND PARMESAN CROUTONS

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups onions chopped, about 2 medium onions

1/2 teaspoon salt

Several grinds of fresh black pepper

3 large cloves garlic, mashed with the side of a knife

1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4- to 1-inch chunks, about 2 or 3 medium potatoes

1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4- to 1-inch chunks, about 4 or 5 medium parsnips

4 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth

2 bay leaves, preferably fresh

1 cup whole milk

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup minced chives

2 cups Parmesan croutons

In a large stockpot, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add the onions, salt and pepper and saute until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the potatoes, parsnips, stock and bay leaves. Stir and bring to a boil.

Reduce to a simmer and cook until the potatoes and parsnips are tender, about 30 minutes. Discard bay leaves.

Puree the soup in a blender by working in batches by carefully pulsing it. If it's thick, use the milk to thin it a little. Return it to the stock pot and add the rest of the milk and cream. Season with more salt and pepper if needed. Garnish with chives and croutons.

Serves six.

PARMESAN CROUTONS

3 cups cubed country-style white bread...