Chateau Brane-Cantenac was ranked as a "second growth" in the 1855 Bordeaux classification, which roughly ranked producers according to the price that their wines fetched in the market place. Since that time the chateau has endured some ups and downs but now is firmly enjoying a quality upswing.

Located in the commune of Margaux, which is known for its softer-styled wines, the approximately 185-acre property is situated on heavy gravel soil and is planted in 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, 40 percent merlot, 4.5 percent cabernet franc and .5 percent carmenere. The selection process at the chateaux is severe, with only one-third of the grapes used in the approximate 12,000-case production grand cru. The remaining grapes go into one of two second-label wines, Baron de Brane or Chateau Notton.

We recently met with Henri Lurton, owner of Chateau Brane-Cantenac since 1993, and had a chance to talk to him about the vineyards, winemaking practices, and to taste his wines. Lurton is no empty suit, having earned degrees in oenology and ampelology (the study of grapes, especially grape varieties). He is actively involved in all areas of the winemaking process.

Lurton is responsible for introducing in-barrel malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees, instead of the more common inoculation in the fermentation tanks. He believes that this process softens the wines, increasing their roundness and fatness without decreasing the wine's age-worthiness. "Brane is made to run a marathon," Lurton said. "It's not muscular, but will last a long time."

We were very impressed with Lurton and his wines and also learned that he was born in the "vintage of the century year" of 1961, which perhaps portends of things to come under his stewardship. Time will tell. Following are our impressions of the wines we tasted and recommend:

Brane-Cantenac 2005 ($80-$100). Although this was the baby of the group and from a stellar vintage, we caught a hint of good things to come. Berry fruit nose with a bit of spice, and coffee that developed in the glass. Soft tannins in the mouth with muted fruit flavors. Lurton thinks this wine needs at least 10 years to begin to open.

Brane-Cantenac 2004 ($50-$70). Leaner and less opulent than the 2005 but already drinkable. Cassis flavors and nose with hints of herbs and leather. A very nice wine that paired well with a branzini fish course.

Brane-Cantenac 2003 ($50-$70). All of the grapes for this torridly hot vintage were harvested between Sept. 8-25, when normally the harvest begins around Sept. 25 and continues into mid-October. Wonderful vanilla and cherry-berry nose, and flavors. Very well-balanced and easy to drink now with a bit less acidity than most vintages. Overall a very nice package.

WINE PICKS

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2007 ($12). A great value, this is one of several Penfolds wines in this category. We liked the shiraz-cabernet blend for its drinkability and plum flavors.

Alcance Carmenere 2007 ($15). Blended with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah, this concoction from Chile offers ripe blackberry flavors with hints of bacon and black pepper. Dense in the month, the wine is a serious competitor to beef dishes.

Ad Lib Tree Hugger Un-oaked Chardonnay 2008 ($15). The Margaret River area of Australia is producing some good rieslings and chardonnays. This unoaked verson has lemon aromas followed by peach and almond flavors. Soft mouth feel.

Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($42). Sweet plum and berry flavors with firm tannins, good oak and hints of mocha. Blended with merlot, malbec and petit verdot.

Clif Gary's Improv Syrah 2006 ($35). This is a terrific barbecue wine with its zesty blueberry and plum notes. Smooth texture.

Lockwood...