The sauvignon blanc seemed to be a safe choice. At a pricey $55, the Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc was coming from a top California producer and could be expected to outperform its contemporaries. But, oddly, the restaurant bottle we recently had didn't seem to have a lot of the aggressive aromas we expect from the grape variety. And it had a lush texture – atypical of the mouth-puckering, grassy and crisply acidic character of sauvignon blanc.

Thinking the wine's flavor had been scalped because of a flaw often associated with TCA, Tom bought a second bottle the next day. Although he expected to find a totally different wine, it was the same. So what gives?

California is just making its sauvignon blanc differently from New Zealand, Washington and other wine-growing regions.

The 2007 Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc is blended with 25 percent semillon, a grape variety that tends to soften its assertive companion. The barrel fermentation and stirring of the lees also gives it a lush, sweet oak quality. The grassy, herbaceous notes associated with New Zealand versions is simply gone.

Whether this is good depends on what you want from sauvignon blanc. The grassy, grapefruit flavors are too strong for many folks, so the California version embodies the best assets of the grape without making your mouth pucker.

The grape known best in France's Loire Valley, sauvignon blanc is a versatile wine for spring weather. It can handle a serious chill and still taste good as an aperitif or alongside everything from a cold pasta to grilled chicken with a citrus preparation. We have always enjoyed the New Zealand sauvignon blancs because they are so distinctive and attack the palate with generous herbal aromas and grapefruit, grassy flavors. If we want a rich version, we'd rather have a chardonnay.

Here are some of different versions. Have some fun and compare a couple.

CALIFORNIA:

Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($18). Soft mouth feel, citrus aromas and ripe melon and mango flavors with a touch of peaches and spice.

Beckman Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($16). From the Santa Ynez Valley, this pleasant spring wine has citrus and grapefruit flavors with crisp acidity and mineral notes.

Raymond Reserve Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14). A good value, this one has classic grapefruit, orange blossom and lime notes with pear and green apple flavors.

Beringer Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16). Classic to the California style, this sauvignon blanc has grapefruit, melon and ripe citrus flavors with lush mouth feel.

Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc 2007 ($20). Delicate citrus and peach notes with a creamy finish and fresh acidity.

NEW ZEALAND:

Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($13). Always a good value, this New Zealand sauvignon blanc has citrus and herbal notes with fresh acidity.

Matua Valley Paretai Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($22). For a few bucks more you can get a more complex, but vibrant wine with good mineral qualities and lots of tropical fruit character.

Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($21). A delicious wine all around, this has become a perennial favorite of ours. Grapefruit, stone and grassy flavors make for an intense wine with balanced acidity.

Long Boat Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($20). From the Marlborough region of New Zealand, this is a winner. Pineapple and peach note with moderate grassy notes and the tart personality that makes it oh-so New Zealand. Unlike most valley-floor wines, this one uses grapes grown high atop ridges.

Craggy Range Te Muna Roads Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($30). Generous peach and lime aromas give way to grapefruit, nectarine and apple flavors....