It always surprises me, when I learn to make something in my kitchen or grow something in my garden that I could buy in a package at the grocery store, how different the flavors, colors and textures can be.

Sourdough bread, jam, cheese, produce directly from the garden, fresh eggs ... the list goes on.

I'm not willing anymore to accept the lifeless taste of food long out of the ground and far removed from its place of birth. I've learned that the closer you get to where it was grown, raised or caught, the more flavor it has. When a carrot is picked out of the ground that day and then arrives at my dinner table, it tastes different, and to my taste buds better, than one that was picked hundreds or thousands of miles away, packaged, shipped and sat on a shelf for several days.

Makes sense. Much of the food we find in the grocery store, although this is slowly changing, is grown or raised with considerations other than taste taking priority -- how well it travels, its shelf life, its uniformity and cost.

It simply makes sense that when an animal, a vegetable or a fruit is allowed to grow in healthy soil, or able to move about without being stressed by crowding, unsanitary conditions, pesticides, over-medication or poor feeding habits ... it's bound to taste better.

Thanks to the surge in interest in "keeping it local," good things are happening -- to our economies and to the quality of our food.

What's true for that carrot also is true for fresh cheeses and dairy products. And it's easy to make your own ricotta, yogurt, buttermilk and even cheeses such as mozarella, fromagina and ricotta salata.

The making of some cheeses produces what is called whey, which is what's left over when milk curds have formed. Whey is an opaque liquid; you'll often see it floating at the top of a yogurt container. Some cheeses produce a lot of whey, and as it's filled with protein, vitamins and minerals, throwing it out seems wasteful.

You can soak grains or beans in whey and use it as you might any stock or soup. Some cultures use it as a base for soft drinks, and it can be found in some bodybuilding products; it's good for muscle and bone strength.

I will flavor it with ginger, garlic, lemon, lemon grass, chilis and/or herbs to create a stock for a quick soup.

Raw or pasteurized milk is acceptable in these recipes. I've used both with good success, although I favor the taste of raw milk products -- which, when purchased from a clean, well-managed farm, is perfectly safe.

WHOLE MILK RICOTTA

1 gallon whole milk, pasteurized or raw

1 teaspoon citric acid

1 teaspoon salt

In a large stockpot, combine milk, acid and salt. Heat to 185 to 195 degrees, stirring often. Do not boil.

As soon as the curds and whey separate, turn off the heat. The whey should look somewhat clear rather than milky. Let sit for 10 minutes. Line a colander with cheese cloth and place in a large bowl. Ladle the curds into the cloth. Tie the corners of the cloth together and hang for 20 to 30 minutes.

You can hang the cloth from a knob on a kitchen cabinet or use a wooden spoon through the knot to hang over a deep container.

Eat immediately or refrigerate for up to two weeks.

Makes 3 to 4 cups (11/2 to 2 pounds).

RICTOTTA SALTA

When I first made this cheese the oven was too hot, even though I set it at the suggested 200 degrees. Apparently, my aging oven at low temperatures loses its precision. I ended up with a gorgeously brown baked cheese loaf that my girls started calling "cheese bread."

It was so delicious, we ate half of it right then on fresh bread. The rest wasn't ricotta salata, but was versatile enough to be used cubed in a pasta dish with broccoli raab and black olives, and in a salad with toasted pine nuts and preserved lemon.

I've since used it as part of a brunch menu, as we had...