We first met Georg Riedel about 20 years ago when he was introducing the United States to the concept that glassware for wine can be as important as the wine selection.

Accustomed to suspicious claims by wine-gadget sales people, we were initially skeptical of Riedel's claims that his varietal-specific glasses would enhance the wine through the shape and design of his stemware.

However, we were convinced of the validity of his thesis after comparing a few sips of two different wines from a standard commercial/restaurant wine glass and Riedel's product.

We ran into Riedel again recently as he was demonstrating his new line of Vitus machine-made lead crystal glasses that retail for about $70 per stem. Introducing himself to a wine-seminar group. He said he was there to "complicate your wine life" and then explained that the "complexity of wine is wasted in the wrong glass."

Most consumers routinely use a generic-shaped glass to drink wine. Using the Riedel glasses correctly -- matching the grape variety to the appropriate glass -- was an eye-opening experience for those in attendance. Riedel explained how the design elements of "size, rim diameter and shape" come together to create Riedel glassware.

Riedel first demonstrated for the group the Vitus #403/15 glass, which is designed to serve sauvignon blanc. The 2007 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($18) was exquisite in the Riedel glass with all of the classic, harmonious New Zealand sauvignon blanc elements of green grass, gooseberry and a dry finish that you should expect. Tasted out of a generic glass the nose disappeared, and the fruit turned flabby and cloying.

We then tried the Vitus #403/97 with the 2006 Clos Pegase Chardonnay Mitsuko Vineyard Carneros ($25). The Riedel glass highlighted the fruit, yeast and toasty oak in the nose and creamy baked apple pie flavors. Poured into the sauvignon blanc glass the toasted oak disappeared and the fruit and complexity waned. Riedel commented that the very expensive French oak barrels used to age this wine had been wasted in the wrong glassware.

The 2006 Ponzi Pinot Noir Willamette Valley ($38) was served in Vitus #403/7. The Ponzi was delightful in the Riedel glass with a very balanced cherry fruit flavor and a nice mild tannic finish to complement food. Tried in the chardonnay glass the fruit was gone, and the tannins dominated in an unpleasant manner.

The final Riedel glass of the evening was the Vitus #403/0, designed to showcase cabernet sauvignon. A Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap Vineyard Napa Valley ($90) exhibited wonderful fruit, eucalyptus and chocolate in the nose with delicious chocolate, cherry flavors in the mouth. This was a very complex, harmonious and pleasing wine that you would expect from this prestigious vineyard and producer. But tasted in the pinot noir glass, the nose was muted and the tannins came out in an off-putting manner.

Once again, experiencing the Riedel difference in glassware reaffirmed that premium wines deserve the opportunity to express themselves in the best possible manner, and that a good glass can make a difference.

Riedel's Web site is www.riedel.com.

PATZ & HALL

We recently had the opportunity to try some of Patz and Hall's new offerings and were especially impressed with the following:

Patz and Hall Chardonnay Carneros Hudson Vineyard 2007 ($55). From an especially cool section of Carneros, the grapes develop complex flavors without losing acidity. One hundred percent malolactic fermentation in-barrel, and aged in 40 percent French new oak barrels, gives this fine wine a lovely pear nose and flavors, with a hint of citrus and spice. Reminds us of a good quality Meursault from Burgundy. Drink now or hold for five to seven years for a more complex aged experience.

Patz and Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Jenkins Ranch 2007 ($55). From a very-low-yield vineyard of about 1.5...