
Sunday: The Appalachian Mountain Club has far-reaching
plans to make thousands of acres of Maine woods into a national
destination for backcountry recreation.
Today: We canoe across three remote ponds, dragging our
boat down a rocky river that rarely sees human footprints.
Tuesday: A wrong turn takes us off a new 17-mile mountain
bike trail as we explore a rocky route between two sporting
camps.
Wednesday: A plan to follow a proposed hiking route off the
Appalachian Trail becomes a bush-whacking challenge to get off
a mountain before dark.
Read the Northern Exposure series
ABOUT OUR REPORTER AND PHOTOGRAPHER
TUX TURKEL is a staff writer who covers business issues,
including tourism, energy and real estate. A graduate of
Emerson College in Boston, he has won several state and
regional awards for reporting and has worked at the Portland
Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram for 27 years. In 1997, he
and three other journalists reported the Forgotten Water series
for the Maine Sunday Telegram, tracing the 130-mile Eastern
Maine Canoe Trail from the New Brunswick border to the
Penobscot River.
DEREK DAVIS has worked in photojournalism for 10 years, the
past three at the Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram.
Previously he worked as a staff photographer for the Journal
News in Westchester County, N.Y. He is a graduate of the
University of New England in Biddeford.
Northern Exposure is a collaborative effort of the Portland Press
Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram, pressherald.com and News 8
WMTW. Tonight on News 8 WMTW at 6, Steve Minich examines
plans for "nature-based tourism."
More information on Medawisla Wilderness Camps.
through heavy mist on Second Roach Pond, but Shannon LeRoy
was already on the water, guiding a dawn moose hunt. The aim
was not to kill a moose, but to spot one. That would be a thrill
for parents and two children from Massachusetts, who had risen
early for the experience and were waiting in a canoe.
Moose spotting is a typical activity at Medawisla Wilderness
Camps, which was purchased last August by the Appalachian
Mountain Club. The camps have been operating since 1953. The
AMC bought the camps from Larry and Shannon LeRoy, who had
owned and managed the property since 1992. A passionate
birder and naturalist, Shannon LeRoy now manages the camps
and runs projects for the AMC.
This year LeRoy is running the AMC's family camp program in
the Maine Woods. Ten adults and seven children were here two
weeks ago. They canoed, hiked, took nature walks, built
birdhouses, explored vernal pools and learned to fly-fish. If
children have fun, the AMC figures, they'll appreciate wild places
and want to protect them.
"That's what we want," LeRoy said. "We want the great times. We
want the memories."
On a recent morning, LeRoy climbed into a kayak to guide a
small group to Hinkley Cove, on the north end of the pond. It's a
great place to spot moose, she said. Over the years, she has
seen bear, coyotes and their pups, otters and once, 18 moose
during a single visit.
On the route, we caught a good look at a loon, saw an eagle,
deer and common merganser ducks. But no moose. Nature is
unpredictable and LeRoy has come to treasure the remoteness
and quiet beauty of the cove.
"It cleanses the soul," she said.
The family didn't seem to mind. They planned to try again later
in the week.
"It was great, so pristine," said Kathleen Earley.
Earley and Dave Steele are AMC members and had come with
their 12-year-old daughters after reading about the camps on
the club's Web site.
Energetic hikers, they didn't let rain stop them from walking up
3,644-foot White Cap Mountain, the highest point on the
Appalachian Trail between Mount Katahdin and Bigelow
Mountain.
Medawisla caters to groups and families. It has seven cabins --
with indoor plumbing, a kitchen and wood stoves -- that sleep
between one and 10 people. It even has scheduled electricity,
until the generator is shut down at 9:30 p.m.
The cabins are set in a row across from the Roach River. Family-
style dinner is served in the building where Shannon LeRoy once
lived and home-schooled three children.
The camps are a short drive from Kokadjo and are open most of
the year. A typical full-service rate for an adult, including meals,
is $120 a night.
Staff Writer Tux Turkel can be contacted at 791-6462 or at:
tturkel@pressherald.com

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