|
Sunday, August 13, 2006
You can get there from here - and it's worth it
Copyright © 2006 Blethen Maine Newspapers Inc. | ||||||
 |
Also on this page: Reader Comments | |||||
To see 3,000 pairs of puffins on Machias Seal Island, you have to drive to the far reaches of Down East Maine, set your alarm very early and spend up to $100 on a boat ride. Even then you may not make it out to the island when you planned. But it's well worth the effort to sit close enough to the puffins to observe them in detail and, yes, even to smell them. Ten miles southeast of Cutler, Machias Seal Island lies in the midst of cold currents that make this region the fog factory of the Gulf of Maine. Without a sheltering bay or nearby coastline, what is a moderate wind on the mainland can send large seas crashing against the island, making it impossible to land passengers on the slippery shore. Boat captains ask people to call ahead the night before to confirm the next morning's departure. Trips, which run from early June to mid-August when the birds depart, may be postponed because of the weather. It's advisable to have a backup plan for something else to do in Washington County. Capt. John Norton of Jonesport said this summer's weather has been extremely uncooperative, with many days where one could not see across the island in the fog. But I was lucky the day I went out in early August; he declared it one of the finest of the season. We left the dock in Jonesport shortly before 6:30 a.m. with the early morning sun slanting across the water. Lobstermen, whose days had begun much earlier than ours, nodded at us as we cruised out through Moosabec Reach and past many small islands. Norton and his boat, the Chief, are local fixtures. Norton's father began taking passengers out to Machias Seal Island almost 70 years ago and locals like to say that by now the Nortons have worn a path in the water all the way out to the island. Birders from all over the world make the trip out to see the puffins. On our trip, there were two other parties, a couple from Ohio and a woman from Georgia with two teenage girls. These are some of the coldest waters in the Gulf of Maine, and passengers should expect much cooler weather than on shore. The girls from Georgia huddled together for warmth. About 10 miles out of Jonesport, Machias Seal Island appeared as a dark sliver on the horizon with intermittent flashes from the lighthouse. We were only halfway to the island but far enough from land to feel the forces of the open sea. A low swell ran under the boat, and Norton pointed out several birds that had traveled much farther than any of us to these waters. There was the greater shearwater, a brown and white bird that breeds in the Tristan da Cunha island in the South Atlantic off South Africa. There were also sooty shearwaters, larger birds that live almost their whole lives at sea, returning to land only to breed on islands off New Zealand and the southern tip of South America. A few miles farther, the first puffins appeared, parrot-like birds with spots of bright color on their beaks and feet. The birds bobbed in the water or darted over it in search of herring. Seeing the birds for the first time, Jennifer Page of Atlanta said she realized that nature photographs had given her the false impression that puffins were much larger and less social. "Maybe not penguin size, but not so little," she said. "You always see them in singles. They're clearly not a solitary bird." At the island, Norton moored the Chief and his mate ferried passengers to shore in an outboard skiff. Transferring between boats and stepping off on a seaweed-covered ramp is not difficult, but passengers with restricted mobility might want to consider other trips where you can watch the puffins from the boat. Visitors are not allowed to roam the island. We walked up a path to the lighthouse and sat beside a helicopter landing pad until the blinds were available. There was time to enjoy the view from the island, which on a clear day is like looking out from atop a ship's mast. The dark cliffs of Grand Manan in New Brunswick stand out to the east and, to the west, the final stretch of the Maine coast from Cutler to West Quoddy Head. In the blinds, the birds seemed unaware of us as they stolled on rocks less than 10 feet from us. Though they are easy to see without binoculars, I wished I had brought a pair to just to see their eyes a little closer. Wildlife officials restrict the number of visitors who can go on the island in the months of June and July to protect the nesting birds. Reservations may be required to secure one of these spots during this time. When these restrictions are lifted Aug. 1, all visitors can land on the island, weather permitting, and there may be longer waits to use the blinds. The day we were there, the other two boats that travel to Machias Seal Island from Cutler and Grand Manan island each brought about a dozen passengers. The boat from Jonesport takes 90 minutes to reach the island. Jonesport is about a four-hour drive from Portland and half as far from Bangor. It is another 45 minutes to Cutler, but the boat ride from there is half as long. All the trips from Jonesport include about two hours on Machias Seal Island, with half that time spent in the blinds. The cost is $100 per person. The trips from Cutler cost $70, but not all these excursions allow passengers to get off the boat. Visitors should bring their own food and supplies as there is nothing for sale on the island or the boats. Staff Writer Seth Harkness can be contacted at 282-8225 or at:
|
||||||
Reader comments
Post your comment here:
To top of page