Mention the word "buffet", and many people think of an array of dull food that's sold by being cheap rather than any gourmet quality. Well, the Sunday buffet at The Cockeyed Gull on Peaks Island is always a an exciting gourmet treat, and also an incredible bargain.

Each Sunday Chun Ye and her staff create a buffet from a different country or region. She's from Korea, and it's not surprising that her Korean buffet is magnificant. But last night we were delighted with the South American dishes, and we're already looking forward to the Middle East meal next Sunday.

When it's not buffet not, the Gull is still a wonderful restaurant. And the view -- even (or especially) in Winter -- is unsurpassed.

For the buffet, you can take the 4:30 or 5:35 boat from Portland, returning on the 6:00 or 7:40. Note that the buffet is only a winter phenomenon. When tourist season begins prices do go up. But nobody's complaining. Local businesses need to survive, and the Cockeyed Gull is a wonderful gift to us in any season.

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