6/22/08
Position 70 00.4N 52 28.2W
The past 24 hours we feel like true explorers.
Departing Ilulisaat we followed the cruise ship Ocean Nova. Completely surrounded by ice turning 1000 RPM in the lead created by the ship. At close to 4 miles out the ship radioed that they had left a passenger behind and they were turning around. We were on our own for 2.5 more miles of thick ice. The Bowdoin performed like a champ! Clutching in and out, picking our way through the big pieces she held her reputation for being agile and able.

Finally out of the pack we headed north to find Andy and Elliot's cairns. I was awoken at 0445 by 3rd mate, Dylan. After steaming through thick bergs in fog all night the sky cleared and wind was brisk - katibatic wind coming off the glacier. 5 miles ahead we could see the glacial valley where the cairns are, but ahead was 4 miles of pack ice. No way in. Disappointed we turned south but after several minutes decided to see if a lead would appear that would permit passage above Disko I. Looking at the radar you wouldn't believe there was a passage, but we found open water leads and are now easily making our way above and around Disko I. The 2 shorelines are incredibly dramatic, like sailing through the Grand Canyon only with ice bergs and glacial topped mountains on either side. We have crossed the 70N!
All is well. Will continue on to Sismuit over next 2 days.

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